Mukteshwar, once a quiet Himalayan hideaway, has over the years grown into a bustling tourist hotspot. During peak season, the narrow mountain roads choke with traffic, and the smell of fuel lingers in the air, a faint reminder of Rohtang Pass in the late nineties. Most hotels, resorts and homestays now line the main road, and the constant hum of vehicles often disturbs what was once the town’s biggest charm, its peace.
That is why staying in Hartola and visiting Mukteshwar for a day trip makes perfect sense. From Katie’s Abode Hartola, Mukteshwar is only 24 kilometres away, an easy 45 to 50 minute drive through forested hills and apple orchards.
The Scenic Drive from Hartola to Mukteshwar
There are two ways to reach Mukteshwar, one via Odakhan and Bhatelia, and the other through Seetla and the IVRI forest. While both are picturesque, I always recommend taking the Seetla route.
This road meanders through a dense forest filled with chirping birds and wild blossoms. The dappled sunlight filtering through the trees makes the drive almost meditative. You will encounter two forest check posts where you will need to register your vehicle, a small but reassuring step for safety. The forest is indeed wild and alive, so it is best not to wander away from your vehicle.
Along the way lies Satv Café and Kitchen, which also houses a Barista outlet. It used to be one of my favourite halts for a cup of coffee amid soothing greenery. Though my last visit left me slightly underwhelmed with the service and food, it remains a good place to stop if you crave that familiar Barista brew.
Once you reach Mukteshwar, you will find a range of charming cafés and restaurants serving everything from wood fired pizzas to local Kumaoni dishes.
Begin Your Day the Hartola Way
Before you head out, I would say, do not rush. After all, you are on vacation. Start with a hearty breakfast at Katie’s Abode, lovingly prepared by Joshiji and served with a smile and perhaps a story or two by Amit. Enjoy it in the outdoor dining area, soaking in the uninterrupted Himalayan views. Once you are well fed and content, set out for your day in Mukteshwar.
Things to Do in Mukteshwar
Seek Blessings at the Mukteshwar Temple
Perched at an altitude of over 2,300 metres, the Mukteshwar Temple is an ancient shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva. The 350 year old temple, crowned by a pristine white marble Shiva Linga, exudes quiet sanctity. As you climb the stone steps, the crisp mountain air and the distant snow peaks lend the place an otherworldly calm. Early morning or late evening is the best time to visit when the golden light paints the ridges and prayers echo softly through the hills.
Experience the Thrill at Chauli Ki Jali
Just a short walk from the temple is Chauli Ki Jali, a dramatic cliff edge overlooking deep valleys and rolling forests. For the adventurous, it offers rock climbing and rappelling. For others, it is simply a breathtaking viewpoint to sit, breathe and watch the clouds float by. Legend has it that miracles once occurred here, giving the spot a mystical aura. Do not forget your camera, as this is one of the most photogenic points in Mukteshwar.
Visit the Indian Veterinary Research Institute (IVRI)
A remnant of the colonial era, the Indian Veterinary Research Institute adds a touch of history to Mukteshwar. Established during British rule, its stone buildings and manicured lawns whisper tales of scientific endeavour. Even if you are not a science enthusiast, the blend of architecture and mountain scenery makes it worth a short stop.
Shop for Local Handicrafts at Kilmora
Before you leave town, drop by Kilmora, a delightful shop supporting local artisans and cooperatives. Browse through hand woven woollens, organic honey, herbal teas and spices, all sourced from nearby villages. The shop’s collection is a wonderful representation of Kumaon’s craftsmanship, and every purchase supports rural livelihoods.
Relive the Colonial Charm at the Mukteshwar Inspection Bungalow
Built during the British era, the Mukteshwar Inspection Bungalow is an elegant reminder of the past. Its sweeping views of the Himalayas, especially at sunrise and sunset, make it a photographer’s delight. The bungalow’s manicured garden and rustic verandah offer the perfect spot for a quiet cup of tea or some reflective journaling.
Lunch in Mukteshwar
When hunger strikes, you will find numerous cafés and restaurants scattered from Letibunga to Sargakhet. My personal favourite remains Café Chandi Mati, where the blend of local flavours and warm hospitality never disappoints.
Years ago, while searching for land to build our homestay, I would often eat at Neelkanth Restaurant in Kasiyalekh, a humble dhaba with unforgettable flavours. The food was simple, fresh and soulful. I am not sure if it is still running, but perhaps it is worth another visit to find out whether that familiar taste from 2015 still lingers.
Back to Peace: Return to Hartola
Padam – family room of Katie’s Abode Hartola
By around 5 or 5.30 in the evening, you can comfortably cover the main attractions, enjoy lunch, and even linger at a café. As dusk approaches, drive back towards Hartola. The road glows golden through the trees as the sun dips behind the ridges.
And what awaits you at Katie’s Abode? The familiar warmth of home, steaming cups of tea or coffee, a plate of crispy mixed pakoras, and the serenity that only Hartola can offer.
So while Mukteshwar dazzles with its sights and cafés, Hartola lets you breathe. Here, the stars are brighter, the nights quieter, and the mornings filled with birdsong, a far better way to experience the Himalayas.
Final Word
If you are planning a trip to this part of Uttarakhand, skip the crowds and chaos. Stay at Katie’s Abode Hartola, soak in the stillness, and make Mukteshwar a memorable day trip rather than a noisy stay.
Ready to experience Hartola? Book your stay at Katie’s Abode Hartola and enjoy a tranquil homestay nestled amidst apple orchards and Himalayan views.
